Up a Mountain in Kosovo (Part 1)
On a clear and cold April morning, we leave the town of Ferizaj where we are staying and head south towards the mountains. We come off the highway and onto a dusty road, then pull in at a mini-supermarket. We are here to pick up Hysen, the mountain man who is going to take us up Lybeten, one of the tallest and most beautiful peaks in Kosovo. Outside the tired-looking building, with its faded cigarette and soft drinks posters, three children sit playing on the ground. This is the only store for miles which provides essentials for local villagers. Hysen’s family has owned it for two decades. The room beside the shop is a cafĂ© and in the hot summer the plastic white furniture comes out, whilst in the harsh winter the chessboards come out. Hysen comes out of the shop and we climb out of the dusty car to greet him. He is a sturdy man in his late 50s, with a mountain-weathered face and a smile of rugged serenity. When I shake his hand, it feels rough from many years of manual