Up a Mountain in Kosovo (Part Two) by Inez Cook
(Please see 25/08/2014 for Part One) We are glad to get out of the cold when we step inside the house. The room we enter has rough white plastered walls and is empty apart from a single mattress, plastic chairs and a woodburning stove in the middle. Hysen invites us to sit as he hangs his shotgun on a hook behind the door. He explains he must keep it to hand at all times, as the wild animals on the mountain include bears and wolves. After collecting firewood from the store outside, he deftly lays and lights the stove. The warmth spreads and shortly after the teapot is whistling on the stove. Hysen is preparing Turkish tea, a remnant of the Ottoman Empire in the history of Kosovo. It is also a central tradition in Kosovo-Albanian hospitality, where guests are afforded great respect and are regarded with an almost regal courtesy. He uses a blue enamel double teapot. The pot on top is made into a strong tea and then diluted using the water from the lower pot. It is ta