Follow the Line by Dave Rigby

Carlisle.

61 minutes by bus to Silloth, over the flatlands,

No line to follow. Closed in ‘64.

Fine buildings, wide streets, docks and a promenade,

A morning coffee, early, they’ve just started serving.

A cheese scone from the bakers to fuel the morning walk,

That and the breakfast porridge.

No footpath signs! No line to follow.

Follow my nose, passing golf course and convalescent home

To the dunes.

Follow the shoreline.

Sea to my right, wind in my face, sand underfoot.

Oyster catchers in packs calling noisily, keeping their distance

From the gulls.

The slap of waves on the shore, grey skies, no rain.

Follow the shoreline.

Solway Firth to the right, Criffel beyond, Lakeland fells to the left,

Fields, farms and open skies.

A coffee shop, unexpected, in the middle of nowhere.

Well, perhaps not nowhere. Fried egg in a sour dough roll, more coffee.

An overheard conversation. A landslip, road and path closed.

Best divert along here, he says, pointing to my map.

Along the beach, waves toing and froing. Around the headland,

Costa Allonby, tea and biscuits in the Surf Bar.

Follow the shoreline.

A Roman fortlet. Unexpected? But then Hadrian’s not far away.

Mist down, the first drops of rain, overtrousers on, an hour to go

Along the shoreline.

Last leg, along the prom, Maryport harbour greeting

My arrival.

Hotel, a rest for weary legs, a Loweswater Gold in the bar.

Down to the harbour in evening gloom.

The biggest fish, chips (and mushy peas) I’ve ever seen.

Despite the long walk, I fail to do them justice.

Quiet, dark, harbourside stroll, over the new bridge, fishing boats moored, a dog barking, a good night’s sleep.

In the morning, more porridge.

Back to the harbour to find…the English Coastal Path

And not far beyond…the West Cumbria line.

Follow the line.

Flimby station, Flimby Pie Shop beyond.

Wind turbines, sentinels coming and going in low cloud and smoke from factory chimneys.

Workington ahead, across the Derwent, past Borough Park, home of the Reds,

Supermarket café for coffee and toast. A cheese and tomato roll,

From Sandwich Heaven, eaten on the hoof.

Follow the line.

New housing springs up from old steelworks,

Harrington station, complete with its hump, minding the gap.

Suddenly, on the wrong side of the line, dead-end ahead.

Half a mile back, a missed left-hand turn

Takes me up and over the sea-fretted tops,

More ghostly turbines,

A descent into Parton, clearing skies.

Hugging shoreline and rail line to Whitehaven.

A phone call to friends, a lift to their home, a meal, good conversation, a bed.

After breakfast, a train ride to St Bees.

A seat on the cliff tops, postcards to write.

Back to the station to follow the line

To Sellafield, Millom, Barrow, Ulverston, Grange and Lancaster

A fine Cumbrian coastal ride,

As long as you have the time.

Which I do.